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Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Camels, Kites, and Chloride (NaCl)


Back again, and I hope your week was as good as mine!  I apologize for the title, it is really corny.  For those of you wondering where the salt comes in (NaCl), just hold on.  As you likely know, I recently returned from yet another Rotary trip (they never seem to end, and we’re just getting started!), this one to the state North of Maharashtra, Gujarat.  A bit of background: Gujarat is pretty traditional it seems, reflected by the nearly twice as many people adhering to a pure-veg diet as well as the state-wide prohibition of alcohol.  The people speak Gujarati, a language that looks like Hindi without the line at the top of the letters, and the state has quite a diversity of ecosystems including a large section of desert. 

On the night of the 10th we departed for Ahmedabad, the largest city of Gujarat, in our 16-person mini bus which became our home for the week.  It was rather cramped and we all got little sleep on our several overnight bus journeys.  With relief we arrived in Ahmedabad and were greeted by some Rotarians, our host families for two days.  The hospitality shown to us while in their care would blow your mind.  Not only were we given free stay, but they paid for all of the great food we ate and places we visited.  We experienced a traditional Gujarati meal, a temple, an ashram, a boat ride powered by an Indian guy with a long stick, and the opening of the kite festival which turned out to be a weird rock concert (including an…interesting interpretation of Bon Jovi’s “It’s My Life”).  It was generally very fun and we enjoyed our time in Ahmedabad.

Another overnight bus ride took us to Bhuj and our hotel for the next three days and two nights.  From this base we visited the Kutch desert festival, which was essentially a small touristy place in the middle of a very dry place.  There was a fair amount of information on the desert and people who have lived there, but this was not the most popular event among our group.  After this, however, we drove to the vast expanse of flat land that we simply called the “Salt Desert”.  The area immediately surrounding the parking area was some interesting kind of sand (presumably mixed with salt) which had the properties and consistency of a wet beach, but somehow accomplished this without the water.  As we began walking (skipping, running, and all other manners of frolicking), the ground became gradually covered by an increasing layer of salt until it appeared that we were in the middle of rural Minnesota after a snowfall.  Since I have been missing my Minnesota weather, it was fun to pretend.

The next day we experienced the true kite day festivities from the roof of a local Rotarian’s house.  My only basis for what to expect coming from The Kite Runner, I was surprised to find that the festival involves essentially the entire city flying kite after kite endlessly from the tops of buildings, stopping only to reel in a wire cut from a neighboring kite in order to tie it to the next kite on the pile.  From my rooftop I could see hundreds of kites filling the sky, and witnessed many humorous attempts by our group to send a kite up into the fray.  The rest of the trip found us riding camels on a beach (not quite a desert safari, but enjoyable nonetheless), running into the Arabian Sea (in the middle of “Winter” to the amazement of all the Indians near us), lifting floating lanterns into the sky, and watching fireworks.  It was a full and exciting two days, and though I did not get a satisfactory picture of the kites in the sky, a photo I took on our final morning gives a good sense of the extent of the festivities.  I genuinely enjoyed this trip for both experiencing an alternate side of Indian culture and for the pure fun we had.  Now that I have finished this post, I need to get working on the next to wrap up the tales of South India since I leave again in just over a week on another trip.  Tough life, huh?  

Thursday, January 10, 2013

The Further Adventures of South India



The tales of South Tour beg telling, so here we go again!  When I left off, we had just experienced a water and light garden place near Mysore to finish out November 23rd.  Wow, I am further behind than I realized.  On the 24th we explored more of Mysore including a bird sanctuary which featured a boat ride near some lazy-yet-scary looking crocodiles (see Trent cowering in fear at right).  We also got our first taste of tall Indian towers and visited the famous Mysore Palace, both of which were quite impressive.  After sightseeing, we headed over to the Mysore bus station where we boarded our luxurious overnight traveling hotel.  It was bad.  This bus was pretty cramped and we shared it with many Indians who were not overly friendly.

After some futile attempts at a good night’s sleep, we arrived in Kodaikanal early the next morning.  The hotel looked a little shabby from the outside, but we were greeted with a hearty breakfast of French toast and Indian-style omelets before collapsing in our beds to make up for sleep.  The rooms were surprisingly large and nicely-furnished which was great.  We found, to our surprise, that Kodai (that’s what we experienced Indian travelers call it) was about 20 degrees cooler than Mysore so we all rushed to grab our jeans and long-sleeved shirts.  Kodaikanal was probably my favorite city on South tour simply because it felt most comfortable to me.  Here I am in India, population well over a billion, and I find myself in this quiet city in the mountains with beautiful surroundings and an abundance of foreigners.  I discovered that in some way it reminded me of Grand Marais, which only made me feel more at home there.  Our stay in Kodai was marked mainly by observing the great views and walking around the town meeting an array of interesting people like a German priest and some French guy with really long dreadlocks who told us the way to the pizza restaurant.



Unfortunately, Kodaikanal also marked the beginning of our group’s declining health and several people got pretty sick.  As we left our home in the hills, it only got worse and spread to more of the group.  Luckily, this illness would make you feel bad for approximately 24 hours before vanishing, and a day later you would feel fine.  Through Madurai and Kanyakumari, 16 of us got sick at some point which certainly put a damper on our enthusiasm. 

However, that did not stop us from seeing amazing sights like the towers in Madurai.  These huge buildings are really beyond words, and were utterly spectacular.  There are four major towers (North, South, East, and West) and a number of smaller ones, each detailing hundreds of gods.  They are one of the most famous buildings in India next to the Taj, and were definitely the most amazing things we saw.  Really magnificent.









After Madurai we headed to the Southern tip of India at Kanyakumari.  We took a ferry ride out to a nearby island where we mostly meandered aimlessly and took a bunch of flag photos.  Kanyakumari is where the Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea, and Bay of Bengal meet and I have never seen so much water.  It’s much cooler to think about than to see, because all you see is miles of water everywhere.  On shore there were a bunch of guys selling really cheap soccer jerseys.  The quality wasn’t that great, but they were only 100 rupees!  That’s like $1.83.  I really regret not getting a few, even if they weren’t that great.  The most interesting part of Kanyakumari was the street tattoo guy, as in sit down and for a few hundred rupees this guy will give you a tattoo.  One of the sketchiest things we saw on the trip.

Here ends part two of South trip.  To catch you up on Pune, things are going great.  On Saturday we had the Rotary district conference, where all of us Pune exchangers performed two traditional Indian dances for the Rotarians.  I do not yet have the video, but I’ll do my best to get a hold of it.  The rest of the conference was long and boring, but the food was great and dinner was accompanied by a bunch of dancing.  Now, as anyone who knows me is aware, I am not a good dancer.  Dancing really isn’t my thing.  I’d much rather be making the music.  However, Indian dancing is a whole different story.  It’s just a ton of people doing random moves and having a great time.  All of us went a little crazy and danced for a long time.  As we found out, the four D’s do not apply to Rotarians and some of them went a little overboard with the alcohol.  It was nothing bad, but they got a little too close and yelled a little too loud in my ear when welcoming me to various events hosted by their clubs.  It was actually pretty amusing.
 
After returning from the conference I got a call from my Hyderabad family the Dawsons (Rachael, their daughter, stayed with my family in Northfield for three months) telling me they would be in Pune for two days and inviting me to come to a wedding reception.  I was thrilled, and of course I wanted to join them.  I was picked up by Jasper Dawson and his friend Raju, the father of the bride.  As seems to be the case in India, I was welcomed wholeheartedly and the hospitality was nearing on excessive.  Because I knew the Dawsons, I was not only invited to the wedding reception but also offered a room in their apartment.  India!  The next day I said goodbye to the Dawsons after nearly 24 hours together, and I can’t wait to see them again.  Sometime between trips, I have been invited to come down to Hyderabad and stay with them for a week and I am eager to take them up on it. 

It is truly astounding how many connections Rotary continues to bring me and I am so grateful.  My exchange seems to keep getting better, and I am beginning to dread the inevitable time when I leave India (in addition to my excitement at being back in Northfield, of course).  I guess I will just have to come back!  Speaking of more travel, I leave tonight for a week-long trip to Gujarat, the state to the North of Maharashtra where Ted Meyer stayed in Surat two years ago.  We are going to see the kite festival featured in “The Kite Runner” as well as experience some intriguing desert festival.  I’m sure it will be fantastic, but I am anxious about all the blogging I have ahead of me.  I guess that’s the price of having so many experiences!  Until next time.

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

The Hindu Holiday Season

Happy New Year!  It has been quite an interesting two weeks since I last posted, and I thought I would take a break from South Trip to talk about the holiday season.  Long before setting foot in India that exchange students go through many ups and downs, especially during the holidays.  Of course I have experienced my fair share of the "emotional roller coaster", and expected Christmas in a non-Christian country to be a bummer.  However, I was determined to bring India some holiday cheer.  With some materials from my family, I decorated my own makeshift Christmas tree and set out some presents.  I also had my own Christmas service of sorts by listening to the St. Olaf Christmas festival from 2011.  The cherry on top was my Christmas skype-a-thon with my family back home.  I got to sit in on the Christmas dinner as well as the opening of the presents.  Technology!  All of the contact with home made it so I hardly missed a thing.  Plus, I got lefse, Christmas food of Minnesotan champions!  All in all, it was probably the best Christmas one can have in a country that doesn't celebrate it, and certainly one that I will remember forever.


New Years in India is traditionally celebrated amongst family, which is different from my traditional several parties in one night plan.  However, this turned out to be a terrific chance to meet all of my extended family on my dad's side.  The most fun were my cousins, of which there were six or seven.  They were outgoing and engaging, and helped me to have a great time.  We played games, danced, and talked a lot about my experience so far in India.  I also acted as Minnesota ambassador and salesperson, and got all of them interested in coming to visit at some point.  One difference in India is that many people I have met have declared they will come stay with me in Minnesota sometime in the future.  I doubt that it will happen for nearly all if any of them, but it says something about the great hospitality here.  The night was not at all what I expected for the end of 2012, but it was a lot of fun.  

Now, fireworks and resolutions are all good, but I was looking forward to New Years not only as a holiday, but as a rough half-way point to my exchange.  That's right, I'm HALF-WAY DONE.  It is so hard to believe, but my year in India has passed so much faster than I could have imagined.  I look back on what I could do here five months ago and am amazed at all that I have learned.  I have met so many amazing people who have taught me so much about their culture as well as my own.  This year truly is an extraordinary experience and I wouldn't give it up for anything.  Realizing that my time here will pass much quicker than I anticipated has renewed my excitement at being here, and pushed me to make some goals.  Essentially, they come to making the most of every day and enjoying the limited time I have to experience India.  Hopefully, you all have made some resolutions of your own and enjoyed your holiday season as much as I did.  Happy New Year, and may it come with as many surprises and opportunities as the last!